The 2nd in the series of ballstol podcasts is now on youtube. Follow this link to view "The ballistol care cloth" podcast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jARnx--ckI
Friday, October 24, 2008
Thursday, October 23, 2008
WEIHRAUCH HW80 STRIPDOWN
As i had a little time this week i set about stripping down my No2 rifle, the hw80 .22. The spring was in need of replacing so i stripped it down to its component parts. Now the spring is in and the following photos show how it was done. Please note that this is a help topic and i am posting this as advice only. I shall not be held responsible for and loss or injury sustained by following this procedure.
Now for the trigger unit. Using a center punch drift out the retaining pins that hold the unit in place. As you remove the unit be sure to withdraw the safety, making sure that the spring on the end comes out with it.
Put a screw driver through the barrel mount bolt holes and, using another flat ended screwdriver, give a sharp push down on the trigger block to unscrew it from the action. Using your towel or cloth, unscrew the block until it`s almost off. NOW TAKE CARE WITH THE NEXT BIT AS THE MAIN SPRING COULD BE UNDER PRELOAD, THUS THE TRIGGER BLOCK WILL BE PUSHED OFF WITH FORCE.( Please note that this is only intended as a help topic and as such i am not liable for any injury sustained during this operation. If you are unsure how to do any work on your rifle take it to a RFD and let them do the required work for you.) 
Withdraw the spring and the piston. Check the piston seal for wear and tear and if you need to replace it. 
To rebuild just reverse this procedure and when it comes to putting in the trigger unit, push down the top bar on the unit to engage the trigger as it was to fire. Then when you put the safety catch back in, pulling the trigger as to fire Will hold the safety in place. Replace the longer pin in the front most hole as this makes it easier to position the unit for the rear pin to be inserted.
Remember...if you are unsure do not attempt to disassemble your rifle but take it to a RFD and let them do the work for you. I am experienced in this sort of thing so this is how i do mine, but i have added this post as a help topic for you i you feel confident enough to give it a go.
First remove the stock and the scope. You are left with the action and barrel.Then remove the barrel hinge bolt , removing the barrel and the shims ,then slide out the piston guide bar.
Now for the trigger unit. Using a center punch drift out the retaining pins that hold the unit in place. As you remove the unit be sure to withdraw the safety, making sure that the spring on the end comes out with it. Put a screw driver through the barrel mount bolt holes and, using another flat ended screwdriver, give a sharp push down on the trigger block to unscrew it from the action. Using your towel or cloth, unscrew the block until it`s almost off. NOW TAKE CARE WITH THE NEXT BIT AS THE MAIN SPRING COULD BE UNDER PRELOAD, THUS THE TRIGGER BLOCK WILL BE PUSHED OFF WITH FORCE.( Please note that this is only intended as a help topic and as such i am not liable for any injury sustained during this operation. If you are unsure how to do any work on your rifle take it to a RFD and let them do the required work for you.) You should find that the trigger block comes away quite easily if it has the original main spring fitted, but if a replacement spring has been put in then take care as this will be much stronger.
Withdraw the spring and the piston. Check the piston seal for wear and tear and if you need to replace it. To rebuild just reverse this procedure and when it comes to putting in the trigger unit, push down the top bar on the unit to engage the trigger as it was to fire. Then when you put the safety catch back in, pulling the trigger as to fire Will hold the safety in place. Replace the longer pin in the front most hole as this makes it easier to position the unit for the rear pin to be inserted.
Remember...if you are unsure do not attempt to disassemble your rifle but take it to a RFD and let them do the work for you. I am experienced in this sort of thing so this is how i do mine, but i have added this post as a help topic for you i you feel confident enough to give it a go.Remember...SAFTEY FIRST !
The Tackle and Guns tarde show 2008
This was the first year for the Ballistol team had attended the trade show and i must say it was great to see so many people interested in the oil. Through the day i did some 60 demos of the ballistol range on my own rifle and everyone was astounded with the finish. We are hopeful that sales will pick up now the retail and trade people within this industry have seen it in action. If you need help choosing between any of the range then feel free to ask my advice, bu if you buy the care cloths and the universal spray you have everything you will need for the upkeep of your rifle.
Here are a few pics of our stand at this years t&g trade show.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Ballistol podcast.
I am pleased to announce that the first in the series of podcasts are now on the Ballistol blog.
If you click the photo, it shoud take you to the podcast.
If you click the photo, it shoud take you to the podcast.
If you cant view the podcast from here, go to http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=McFs2inDFbU to view it.
More to come from Ballistol and DVS so watch this space
Monday, October 13, 2008
The guest book
If you find our site interesting and helpfull, please leave a message in our guest book. By clicking on the RED link on the right , you can add your comments and remarks. You can also use the comments tab at the bottom of this and every post. We have a new section on the site too, if you want to you can now become one of our followers, showing your support to the D-V-S team and also letting other visitors to the site see that we have a great blog full of help and ideas.
Thanks for reading and please keep coming back.
Richard
Oh and dont forget to visit the Ballistol website where there are new products now available. I dont use anything else on my rifles because the ballistol care cloth does it all. Link at the bottom of this link and if you click on any of the ballistol pitures that too will take you to the Ballistol home page.
Ballistol oil....Does the job of many, with just one wipe.
Thanks for reading and please keep coming back.
Richard
Oh and dont forget to visit the Ballistol website where there are new products now available. I dont use anything else on my rifles because the ballistol care cloth does it all. Link at the bottom of this link and if you click on any of the ballistol pitures that too will take you to the Ballistol home page.
Ballistol oil....Does the job of many, with just one wipe.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
myxi in rabbits
As i am sure you are all aware, myxi is nasty virus that affects rabbits. The following was posted last year but i thought i would repost it for you all.
The disease myxomatosis in rabbits is caused by a virus. The virus is a type of pox virus which grows best in the skin of rabbits.The very first signs we can see are puffy, fluid swellings around the head and face. 'sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the insides of the ear and puffy swellings around the anus and genitalia. Within a day or so, these swellings can become so severe as to cause blindness and there may become some distortion around the face, mouth, ears and nose.A major insect parasite which transmits the disease in this country is the rabbit flea. Although this has never been proved, there is strong circumstantial evidence that mosquitoes transmit Myxomatosis in the United Kingdom. Myxomatosis virus can remain alive in the blood of fleas for many months and it is probably by over wintering of fleas in rabbit burrows the disease is transmitted from year to year.As the mosquito or flea bites the rabbit a small amount of the live virus is placed in the skin of the rabbit as the insect sucks blood. Within a few days the virus is transmitted to a local lymph node and then passes into the blood of the rabbit which enables it to be moved around to several sites. The virus mainly multiples in the skin around the eyes, the nose, the face, the soft skin inside the ears and also the skin around the anus and genitals of the rabbit.The incubation period varies slightly from one animal to another but can be as short as five days and as long as fourteen days. Some animals may survive for weeks or months after infection but, in general, if the infection is severe in a susceptible rabbit, death occurs within twelve days.Within a short space of time, affected rabbits become blind because of the swelling around the eyes and for this reason feeding and drinking is often difficult. However, one can sometimes see wild rabbits suffering from Myxomatosis quietly grazing. Of course, at this stage many rabbits become prey to animals such as foxes and other predators. Other rabbits may well become injured or killed on roads but the common cause of death is a secondary lung infection which often occurs around day eight after the initial incubation of the disease.Not all affected rabbits die. Although recovery is rare in the wild (probably less than 10% of wild rabbits eventually recover from myxomatosis).It is easy to spot infected rabbits as they will stay out in the open in daylight, apparently grazing happily, the real reason they are in the open is that they are blind and are having difficulty breathing as their lungs slowly fill with liquid.Look for the closed and weeping eyes.I approach them quietly from downwind and despatch them with a well placed head shot.
As a matter of course I despatch all 'Myxi' infected rabbits that I find , I bag them up and remove them from the field.
The disease myxomatosis in rabbits is caused by a virus. The virus is a type of pox virus which grows best in the skin of rabbits.The very first signs we can see are puffy, fluid swellings around the head and face. 'sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the insides of the ear and puffy swellings around the anus and genitalia. Within a day or so, these swellings can become so severe as to cause blindness and there may become some distortion around the face, mouth, ears and nose.A major insect parasite which transmits the disease in this country is the rabbit flea. Although this has never been proved, there is strong circumstantial evidence that mosquitoes transmit Myxomatosis in the United Kingdom. Myxomatosis virus can remain alive in the blood of fleas for many months and it is probably by over wintering of fleas in rabbit burrows the disease is transmitted from year to year.As the mosquito or flea bites the rabbit a small amount of the live virus is placed in the skin of the rabbit as the insect sucks blood. Within a few days the virus is transmitted to a local lymph node and then passes into the blood of the rabbit which enables it to be moved around to several sites. The virus mainly multiples in the skin around the eyes, the nose, the face, the soft skin inside the ears and also the skin around the anus and genitals of the rabbit.The incubation period varies slightly from one animal to another but can be as short as five days and as long as fourteen days. Some animals may survive for weeks or months after infection but, in general, if the infection is severe in a susceptible rabbit, death occurs within twelve days.Within a short space of time, affected rabbits become blind because of the swelling around the eyes and for this reason feeding and drinking is often difficult. However, one can sometimes see wild rabbits suffering from Myxomatosis quietly grazing. Of course, at this stage many rabbits become prey to animals such as foxes and other predators. Other rabbits may well become injured or killed on roads but the common cause of death is a secondary lung infection which often occurs around day eight after the initial incubation of the disease.Not all affected rabbits die. Although recovery is rare in the wild (probably less than 10% of wild rabbits eventually recover from myxomatosis).It is easy to spot infected rabbits as they will stay out in the open in daylight, apparently grazing happily, the real reason they are in the open is that they are blind and are having difficulty breathing as their lungs slowly fill with liquid.Look for the closed and weeping eyes.I approach them quietly from downwind and despatch them with a well placed head shot.
As a matter of course I despatch all 'Myxi' infected rabbits that I find , I bag them up and remove them from the field.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Ballistol..what is it and what are its uses.
BALLISTOL
Universal and environment-friendly
Since 1905 Ballistol, the first alkaline weapon-oil, has found many enthusiastic usersnot only in the field of gun maintenance but also in handicraft, industry, home andhobby, where it has become an indispensable helper.
As a high-quality special oil Ballistol combines multiple functions, like cleaning, rust protection, lubrication and disinfection. Moreover, Ballistol is absolutely free from resins and acids. This is why its reputation has become so legendary on all five continents. No other oil comes even close to the multi-functionality of Ballistol.
Applied on metallic surfaces (e.g. iron, steel, nickel and chromium), Ballistol does two jobs simultaneously - cleaning and conserving. Due to its alkaline qualities it reduces the oxygen carriers which are responsible for the oxidation (= rust) of metals and thus protects against corrosion. On top of that it neutralizes feeble acids and is able to creep into hairline cracks and remote corners because the oil has a very low surface tension. Ballistol is made of valuable substances with pharmaceutical purity - its production is regulated by extremely strict hygienic rules. All effective substances in Ballistol are purely natural products and appear in other natural compounds that are totally decomposable in the circular course of nature. The non-volatile components of Ballistol-Oil and Ballistol-Spray fully comply with the legislation and regulations on allowed substances in food. Therefore Ballistol can also be used to maintain machinery in food and drink processing plants where the machines get in contact wittL nourishment. Even an accidental intake of Ballistol is absolutely harmless.
Ballistol and the care of weapons
Pull a tow saturated with Ballistol or a felt stop through the barrel and cartridge feed. Depending on how much residue there is, this procedure may have to be repeated several times. Drip some Ballistol on single parts and the magazine (alternatively use Ballistol-Spray) and then dab the parts with a fluff-free piece of cloth. Intensive metal smearing means that Ballistol has to be used amply. Finally pull a dry tow or felt stop from the cartridge feed towards the muzzle. If you plan not to use the gun for a longer period of time, leave it slightly wet with Ballistol. But do not forget to do the drying as described above before the next shot. The external parts of the gun must be wiped very gently with Ballistol, do not apply much pressure, otherwise the browning might be mechanically damaged by the cloth used. Ballistol maintains and protects your gun, keeps the mechanical parts well-functioning and removes metal residue in the barrel. A thick layer of Ballistol will - after a while - turn into white Vaseline-like film thus protecting the gun against corrosion and keeping movable parts movable. This protective layer has got nothing to do with resinification! Acid combustion residue will be automatically neutralized and made harmless. Only an alkaline oil like Ballistol is capable of doing such an outstanding job.
Ballistol and fishing
Maintains hooks, fly hooks, bait needles, spring-steel wire, and cast leaders. Ballistol keeps your reels running smoothly.
Ballistol in handicraft and industry
For the maintenance of chrome parts in cars, for loosening seized screws, against unwieldy locks and screeching hinges. Keeps plastic and oil-resistant gum and rubber in good shape. In winter it prevents locks from freezing. Neutralizes battery acids that might have leaked and neutralizes hand sweat. In fine mechanics for the protection of polished metal surfaces, for maintaining sensitive scales, precision tools, fine- mechanical parts and last not least for all kinds of measuring and diagnostic instruments. In beverage-producing plants highly appreciated for the maintenance of filling machines, for instance in breweries or fresh milk filling and packing plants. At butchers' for meat-processing and cutting devices. In machine factories for storing and maintaining high-end quality machinery.
Ballistol for home and gardening
Against unwieldy locks, screeching hinges, for maintaining gardening tools, like tor instance lawn-mowers, scissors, hose reels and carrying carts, etc. For bicycles, mopeds, sewing-machines, typewriters. Ballistol is ideal for the upkeep of doon cupboards and chairs: natural wood will be regenerated, stains (from water) removed, the wood will get back its original silky gloss. Brittle, inflexible and hard leather will be soft and elastic again, Ballistol will protect it against water and decay and will provide smooth leather a soft and silky gloss. Ideal for boots, saddles, head-gears and belts. Chamois leather may also be treated with Ballistol, but mind that this kind of leather then loses its original rough surface.
Keep Ballistol products in their original packages and see to it that the bottles are not left open. Then Ballistol has got no expiry date and does not resinify, even after several decades of storage. Do not fill Ballistol in any economical oilers which contain brass parts. Ballistol would become sort of greenish and jelly-like in those oilers. Instead we recommend Ballistol drip-oiler. For spraying Ballistol on bigger surfaces we offer Ballistol hand sprayer. Both products are available at your special retailer or directly from us.
Ballistol is available in 50ml drip-bottles, in a 500ml can, and in a 5-liter canister as well as in larger units for industrial purposes. Furthermore, we offer Ballistol in a 50ml, 100ml or even a 200ml spray can, with the practical additional spray pipe. It goes without saying that all sprays are free from so-called CFC's, chlorinated hydrocarbons and other environment damaging components.
Ballistol - The special oil for environmentally aware people.
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