Happy christmas

I hope you have all had a good year and may I wish you all a very good Christmas and a fantastic New Year. I also want to say a big thank you to everyone who has visited the site as you all make it worth while.

Please keep coming back to the site as I have new things to post and now I have a list of shops to add to the site also. Now you will have everything you need on one site, no need to go looking for them, as all the good ones will be in the shop list. Scroll down the page and you will find the list of shops on the right, starting with Tonys Camo.

Once again Happy Christmas and a big thank you.

Richard.

a change of plan

Hi guys

Went out for a few hours the other day mainly to get some bunnies but that soon changed

Any how on arrival decided we would set up the hide and wait it out as the particular area was quite a hotspot, while setting the hide up we both noticed a flock of pigeons in the distance in a couple of tall tree’s and although these are not at the top of the priority list from the farmer I thought I would have a little change for an hour or so.

I wandered up the side of the field along the hedge row for 100yrds or so looking out for wabbits as I walked/stalked, turned towards the nearest tree with Woody’s in of about 80yrds away, I crept in and out of some thorn bushes to get into position on Mr. Pigeon. At now 25yrds off so had done really well but I was pretty much stuck in what to do next as I could not move from were I was and I could not get a shot off with all the branches over hanging in my line of site. So I just sat and pondered for a minute and watched all around me for other quarry to reveal them self’s.

I then broke cover and risked it, trying to get clear of the branches for a clean unobtrusive shot. I eased myself out of the hedge very slowly with my face pointing down even though I hade my face vial firmly in place, had moved out from the hedge a good two meters and still could not get a clean shot and now the branches were thinning out to there tips

Now in almost full view I was very skittish myself just waiting for these eight or nine pigeons to clock me, I saw a gap in the branches were maybe I could get a clean shot so I very slowly raised my S410 and sure enough I was rumbled but to my surprise it was one on the other side of the tree that clocked me and with his infamous clatter of wings sent the rest reaching for the skies. I lay in the frost ridden grass for a moment and gathered my thoughts and came to the conclusion that I was pushing my luck from the moment I left the ivy ridden tree I was using for cover.

Strike me down!!!..... as I was getting up out the corner of my eye was a bunny ,one of this years kits stood there , I grinned as I had two feet and one hand on the ground with my hand helping me up, I froze and chuckled to my self “if I go back down he will bolt, if a get fully up he will bolt” I got up as slowly as I could but he was to scared having been only 15- 20yrds away

Patted myself down and went to the edge of a field slightly further on which has been a source of a couple of rabbits. No sooner had I got into the hedge over looking the field when a giant horse came bounding over making noises from his snout and bucking quite aggressively having met the old fellow before I backed out of the hedge and turned and sat back on the other side, I had a look around for a while, from were I had just came I saw a woody slightly flying toward me just off centre.

Pushed myself into the hedge with my heals ,he swooped down and back up as he found his spot and opened his wings to slow ,He perched him self on a branch no further than 15-20yrds away to my left very unfortunate for him. Squared him up and nailed him, down he came hitting a few branches on the way coming to rest in some bracken. Picked him up and took him over to an opening in the field that I would later use to exit the field so that was were I lay him

( thank god Richard took his camera because i forgot )

I walked back down to my first ambush point to have a look at were I could locate myself to get a clean shot on the Woody’s return there was no easy position and needed to rethink my approach so I thought I would go back get my woody and meet up with Richard find out what’s been happening in the adjacent field he was covering and maybe have a coffee or two and let my presence cool down

Could not believe my eye’s when I reached the opening to find my prize was gone, looking around saw a few feathers, then saw a clump of feathers a bit further on past the opening I walked on there was my woody, “what the hell” I said and not quietly either, my woody was there alright with it head down a small hole .Confused I grabbed him lifting him out to find most of his neck and face ripped open. I can only assume that the weasel I have seen on occasion had dragged his new found gift away from my grasp and tried taking him underground, thank you very much !!! Were the words I used while walking away

Walking down the fields back to Richard I was more interested in telling the account of what happened than showing the woody

We had a coffee and chatted for a while but still buzzing was soon of again this time in the opposite direction to do a little reccy on a area we both had over looked for a good reason being that to get to this little area we would upset any chances of a rabbit or two on the other side of the hedge. Curiosity made me do it, and yes I did set off a few bolting rabbits but my finding were great plenty more holes and quite a few places to hide up that we will be using on our next visit.

Mike S410

Todays shoot

Today Mike and I went out for a short shooting trip, mainly to see if the rabbits were out during the day warming themselves after another frosty night. We got to our set up spot and built a blind, just to hide ourselves from view of the passing wildlife. Mike went off to look at the roosting woodies at the top of the rape field and i settled down to wait for the passing rabbits. Out set up site is 25 yards from a well used run and we always spot the odd few running across the fields, heading right to the fields of young oil seed rape shoots.

Me waiting to bag a passing rabbit

My little hide. This field is 70 yards wide and the rabbits use this as there walk way to the rape field.

Mike managed to bag a woodie, a big one at that too, but i missed out on 3 rabbits due to the horses running in the field. My boots are a size 8 so you can judge the size of the bird.

This is now breasted and waiting for a nice rabbit saddle to go with it. With this i will make a nice rabbit and pigeon pie with winter veg.

This is the view from the trees where my blind is situated. As you can see the rabbits come from the otherside of the field and in to the rape field behind me.

Just under this tree is loads of warrens. Take a look at the next picture to see how many there are within a 2mtr square of that tree.

There are hunderds like this all around this field, under the hedges and trees so its just a waiting game really, and being on top form when they show themselves.

All packed up and ready for home. We will be returning friday afternoon around dusk and see how many we can bag under the cover of darkness..........To be continued

HAD A QUICKIE ! ! ! !

Hi guys

BRAVING THE COLD- I’d decided at about 3pm I was going to get a bunny or two in the last remaining hour's of light ,gave the farmer the nudge and tackled up ,logun lamp, knife, rifle, ect. The rifle has a charge of 150bar left so well in its sweet spot so no need to charge.......right I’m off.

Driving over realized that the AA S410 was still zeroed up for short range ratting from the other day ...OH CRAP ..Zeroing the rifle is gunna take 10 mins and the dark is coming down fast and not got a full charge in lamp either was not planning on staying all that long .Luckily have made a cigarette lighter charger for this very instance although was only planning on getting in,, shoot one or two, and get out.

Any how I arrive, drive down the lane and see a few rabbits cross my path and think to myself this could be good.... so I pull up and need to get the ball rolling quite quick the light is fading and a new zero needs applying plus load up my mags ......now I’m getting eager to be on my way, the zero came quite quick with no windage adjustment needed, mag filled, wellies on..... Within five mins I’m ready .

Take the first corner up the long edge of a field like a sniper...nothing ,carry on 30yrds up to just 30yrds short of a brow of a small hump un the field were I know in the adjacent field is the first hotspot ,so I crawl and creep through the hedge then pause just to let my presence if it has been felt settle before I eye up the hotspot , I can see through the fence into the field about 60yrds away 5 rabbits 3 of which are grazing and 2 are running round playing ,Instead of moving up ,I wait, settle into the hedge.

Within 10 minutes the hotspot starts to come alive a young one hops out sits grazing ,I know now I’ve got probably another five to ten minutes before something bigger and more worth while is going to show itself sure, enough she does right on zero and cue, heart rate rises slightly as i’m well chuffed that my thoughts and actions were bang on as its a new shoot, I try not to rush and compose myself ,get onto my knees from lying in the hedge motionless and adopt an awkward position at first because I have a rock under my knee so slowly lift it of and move a fraction over ,The dark is coming down fast not got long now.

The cross is on ,the tension is there and as I move it right over the kill zone her head pops up ,she has seen me !!!!!! ,No she is just checking around she goes back down grazing .so i quickly take aim and squeeze the trigger sending the AA field straight as an arrow right on target knocking her over with two twitches and she is dead I stay still as the young one gets jitty and scarpers ,then I realize its raining and start to think about the car on the muddy lane and getting back to the road alright.

So I just hopp the fence and retrieve my rabbit and decide that I did not intend on stopping long and I’ve now got a rabbit to gut and skin together with a wet rifle to strip .So back to the car for a quick photo for you guys and a paunch ,then the drive home.



Mike S410

Becoming a follower.

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So come on, dont be shy.

What it takes to bag a bunny

OK, you’ve got your rifle and other assorted equipment ready, your land’s ready so what’s the first thing you do? It may seem obvious but I always check that my rifle/scope combo is perfectly accurate before I set out on a stalk.

When approaching your prey, you should head into any breeze so that your scent is carried away from the rabbits, and this will also help drift away any small sounds you make – after all rabbits have big ears for a reason! Your movements must be slower than slow, especially on the final approach. You should never attempt to shoot a rabbit that’s more than 35 metres away, and only then with a headshot that will kill him cleanly.

If you look at the map below, I’ve sketched out a recent foray for you, and I’ll take you through a typical day out from the moment I left my car at the farm buildings to when I potted my first rabbit.
As you can see, the breeze was blowing from my left as I entered the woods. However, even though I was working my way towards the edge of the woods, I still stalked slowly through the undergrowth; it’s no good wandering through the woods, sending birds flying and branches breaking because when you do get to your fields, that’s all you’ll find there – just the fields. You need to take every step as if it was the final one of your approach – silently, slowly and carefully.
As I got near the end of the woods, I used my scope to check-out the fields. At the top, there’s a rabbit-run through the hedge and rabbits quite often come into this field for a feast. Spotting a couple I checked for wind direction and realised that the only way I could approach, unseen into the wind, was by working my way down through the woods and then along the wrong side of the bank.
The woods posed no problem to me but when I had to come out of the woods, I had to do it on all fours. Wanting to keep as low a profile as possible, I had to keep my body below the level of the bank. Unfortunately, this meant getting lower as I moved away from the bank towards the short bushes.
This is what stalking is all about, there’s been many a time I’ve spent ages stalking a rabbit and maybe missed the shot or something else has spooked the rabbit before I could draw a bead on him. But, it’s the taking part that counts. There’s nothing like the feeling you get when you finally arrive some 30 metres from a wild animal and it’s been all your effort that’s rewarded you.

A question I often get asked at the shows is “How do I get my first rabbit?” it’s the sort of question that needs far more explaining than simply telling someone to get up to a local farm. Usually, it turns out that the person asking already has some land, but for some reason or other, every outing has produced a big fat zero!

Trying to pin one particular reason down, though, is very difficult. Without actually following the guy, or girl, around, I thought I’d lay out a few vital tips and let you follow along with me, on one of my recent forays to show you how it’s done.

Using an airgun to hunt rabbits is some of the best fun you can have – plus it helps the landowner keep his pest population down and, if you’re successful, you get a free meal out of it too!

So, going right back to basics, let’s see what sort of kit you’ll need – and this is before you even venture out on your first real rabbit raid. Remember, this is just skimming the basics, a lot of these items are worth a page or two in their own right, and we’ll hopefully go over these in future issues.

First get your gun
Obviously, you’re going to need a rifle, not a pistol. Hunting should never be attempted with any air pistol as they simply do not have the power, or accuracy, for hunting work. So, what sort of rifle do you need?
There are plenty of good hunting rifles on the market that’ll be more than adequate, but, putting it simply, it comes down to basically two types.

• Recoiling riflesThese are powered by an internal spring that you compress by either cocking the action via a break-barrel, underlever or sidelever

• Precharged pneumaticswhich run on compressed air and are totally recoilless when you fire them.

There’s pros and cons for both types but for our purposes today, all I’ll say is that you’ll need a rifle that’s got a maximum power output of 11.5 ft lbs. These rifles are available without a licence, but bear in mind the current laws of the land. However, from the age of 14 you can shoot an airgun on your own, and without adult supervision, provided you are on private land and have the consent of the landowner.

What calibre do you use
An old adage used to go “Use .177 for feather and a .22 for fur” and although this is damn good advice, it’s not gospel. A well-placed shot, in any calibre, will result in a clean, humane kill. Again this debate has been going on since the dawn of airgunning so, my advice? Opt for your own personal choice and learn to use that properly. Now, having said that, there are times when one calibre may be better than the other, but I’ve found that with rabbits, a good head shot with any size pellet will humanely kill the coney.

Scopes
Once you’ve got your rifle, you’re going to need a scope. For any type of hunting work, I honestly believe in the use of a decent set of optics. Telescopic sights comes in all sizes; but for hunting, I’d advise something in the range of a 3-9 magnification setting. This gives you the best compromise and versatility in that you can use the lower magnifications in dull light conditions, as this allows more light to reach your shooting eye, or due to the wider field of view the lower end gives you, you can check out the ground ahead for possible prey. Once you’ve located your quarry, then it’s only a matter of moments to zoom up to a useful 9x magnification which makes the actual taking of the shot so much easier.

Pellets
Pellets are also a top priority. It’s no good just shoving in any bit of old lead. Quality ammo is essential. After all, at the end of the day you want the best accuracy you can get. Essentially, although there’s plenty of specialist ammo around, you simply cannot beat a standard dome-head type pellet for both accuracy, and efficiency, in the field. Again, pellets are a separate article on their own – the basic rule though is buy a well-known brand that’s got a good reputation.

The right gear
And finally, your clothing. I honestly believe that wearing the right gear helps my hunting. Whether I’m stalking, using a hide or practising, I always wear my cammo. The reason is that I get used to moving and shooting in one set of clothes. The idea behind wearing cammo, as opposed to your jeans and T-shirt, is to break-up your outline so your general shape cannot be seen by the rabbits. All you’ve got to do then, theoretically of course, is to move really slowly until you’re within range of them. On paper this sounds so easy, but in practice one little mistake in your approach and you’ve lost the shot. To be honest, because of the closer ranges you’re working at, I’d rather stalk a deer than a rabbit. And, if you are a deerstalker, then practising on rabbits will certainly hone-up your stalking skills.

New shoot...Rabbit problem.

The other week i got a phone call from a farm asking me to help with their rabbit problem. They have a big problem with the rabbits because the gamekeepers have shot all the foxes around the 470 acers of prime farm land, so the rabbits have been left to multiply at an alarming rate. So in we went to do a walkround the main fields that have the most warrens on them and we were amazed at how many there were. The following pictures were taken from the bottom of field and the warrens are on the left under the bushes....As you can see from these pictures, over a 2mtr strech theres loads of holes...and loads of rabbits too. I have just bought a new sleeping bag to use as a short term hide as there are loads of bushes to hide under and trees to hide in to just wait for them to pop out for a spot of food. I have a huge length of tank scrim that will provide me with some cover and the bivi bag will keep me warm and dry through the day. I have just orderd a "dragons claw" bipod to provide some front end support and i am looking forward to some serious bunny bashing sessions quite soon.I will keep you posted on the outcome and do some pics of my hide too. I hope the freezer will be full soon as i miss my rabbit and pigeon pies .

the logun lamp

For some time now i have wanted a bigger lamp for my night time forays but i have now got a better charger for my battery and the lamp is now brighter than ever, and lasts a hell of a lot longer than it did before. I askes the proffeser (Mad Mike) if he could come up with a red filter for my lamp as i only wanted one and not the whole set. He came up with the filter and i added the screw fitting for easy use and i must say it works a treat. I just used the realtree tape to cover over the glue and direct the light out the front and not the sides of the lamp.

I moved the switch so i can use my thumb on my right hand to turn it on and off, therefore i can keep my left hand holding the stock very still for the shot.Thanks to mike for the unique filter...rabbits just stand still and pigeons dont fly off so i can say it works very well.

Richard

The D-V-S forum

Just a quick post to let you all know that the D-V-S forum is now up and running.

Click this link to go to the forum. Please register as a member and have your say on all things airgun or post your shooting pictures in the designated forum. Even if you just want help or advice on something airgun pop in and post...it shouldnt take long for you to get a answer to your questions.

So thats the "D-V-S FORUM" Join today and have your say.

The new Logun EVO

Whilst i was at the tackle and guns trade show i had the opportunity to shoot this, the new logun evo. It looks and feels like a rifle should and the shots were quick and very quiet.

The new generation Evo S16 features a shrouded barrel system and other major improvements to raise the rifle to new heights of technological superiority. The shrouded barrel system not only makes the rifle even quieter but also reduces the rifles overall weight. Amongst the improvements are a new cocking cycle that is smoother, new style gauge gives more accurate info on your air reserve. Improved trigger unit gives improved feel. The original issue with bottle o-rings has been resolved with a re-design incorporating the new thicker seal o-ring into the charging adaptor. This new Logun Evo S16-S takes an already superb rifle and in Logun tradition "Makes the Best Better"

New backstop.

I had some time on my hands so i made a new portable backstop. This backstop incorperates a knockdown target with backstop. Easy to build and has a load of room for paper targets and a shelf for other targets.

Ballistol podcast

The 2nd in the series of ballstol podcasts is now on youtube. Follow this link to view "The ballistol care cloth" podcast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jARnx--ckI

WEIHRAUCH HW80 STRIPDOWN

As i had a little time this week i set about stripping down my No2 rifle, the hw80 .22. The spring was in need of replacing so i stripped it down to its component parts. Now the spring is in and the following photos show how it was done. Please note that this is a help topic and i am posting this as advice only. I shall not be held responsible for and loss or injury sustained by following this procedure.

First remove the stock and the scope. You are left with the action and barrel.Then remove the barrel hinge bolt , removing the barrel and the shims ,then slide out the piston guide bar.

Now for the trigger unit. Using a center punch drift out the retaining pins that hold the unit in place. As you remove the unit be sure to withdraw the safety, making sure that the spring on the end comes out with it.

Put a screw driver through the barrel mount bolt holes and, using another flat ended screwdriver, give a sharp push down on the trigger block to unscrew it from the action. Using your towel or cloth, unscrew the block until it`s almost off. NOW TAKE CARE WITH THE NEXT BIT AS THE MAIN SPRING COULD BE UNDER PRELOAD, THUS THE TRIGGER BLOCK WILL BE PUSHED OFF WITH FORCE.( Please note that this is only intended as a help topic and as such i am not liable for any injury sustained during this operation. If you are unsure how to do any work on your rifle take it to a RFD and let them do the required work for you.)

You should find that the trigger block comes away quite easily if it has the original main spring fitted, but if a replacement spring has been put in then take care as this will be much stronger.

Withdraw the spring and the piston. Check the piston seal for wear and tear and if you need to replace it.
To rebuild just reverse this procedure and when it comes to putting in the trigger unit, push down the top bar on the unit to engage the trigger as it was to fire. Then when you put the safety catch back in, pulling the trigger as to fire Will hold the safety in place. Replace the longer pin in the front most hole as this makes it easier to position the unit for the rear pin to be inserted.
Remember...if you are unsure do not attempt to disassemble your rifle but take it to a RFD and let them do the work for you. I am experienced in this sort of thing so this is how i do mine, but i have added this post as a help topic for you i you feel confident enough to give it a go.

Remember...SAFTEY FIRST !

The Tackle and Guns tarde show 2008

This was the first year for the Ballistol team had attended the trade show and i must say it was great to see so many people interested in the oil. Through the day i did some 60 demos of the ballistol range on my own rifle and everyone was astounded with the finish. We are hopeful that sales will pick up now the retail and trade people within this industry have seen it in action. If you need help choosing between any of the range then feel free to ask my advice, bu if you buy the care cloths and the universal spray you have everything you will need for the upkeep of your rifle.

Email me Technical@ballistoluk.co.uk with your questions.

Here are a few pics of our stand at this years t&g trade show.

Ballistol podcast.

I am pleased to announce that the first in the series of podcasts are now on the Ballistol blog.

If you click the photo, it shoud take you to the podcast.

If you cant view the podcast from here, go to http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=McFs2inDFbU to view it.

More to come from Ballistol and DVS so watch this space

The guest book

If you find our site interesting and helpfull, please leave a message in our guest book. By clicking on the RED link on the right , you can add your comments and remarks. You can also use the comments tab at the bottom of this and every post. We have a new section on the site too, if you want to you can now become one of our followers, showing your support to the D-V-S team and also letting other visitors to the site see that we have a great blog full of help and ideas.
Thanks for reading and please keep coming back.

Richard

Oh and dont forget to visit the Ballistol website where there are new products now available. I dont use anything else on my rifles because the ballistol care cloth does it all. Link at the bottom of this link and if you click on any of the ballistol pitures that too will take you to the Ballistol home page.
Ballistol oil....Does the job of many, with just one wipe.

myxi in rabbits

As i am sure you are all aware, myxi is nasty virus that affects rabbits. The following was posted last year but i thought i would repost it for you all.


The disease myxomatosis in rabbits is caused by a virus. The virus is a type of pox virus which grows best in the skin of rabbits.The very first signs we can see are puffy, fluid swellings around the head and face. 'sleepy eyes' are a classic sign along with swollen lips, tiny swellings on the insides of the ear and puffy swellings around the anus and genitalia. Within a day or so, these swellings can become so severe as to cause blindness and there may become some distortion around the face, mouth, ears and nose.A major insect parasite which transmits the disease in this country is the rabbit flea. Although this has never been proved, there is strong circumstantial evidence that mosquitoes transmit Myxomatosis in the United Kingdom. Myxomatosis virus can remain alive in the blood of fleas for many months and it is probably by over wintering of fleas in rabbit burrows the disease is transmitted from year to year.As the mosquito or flea bites the rabbit a small amount of the live virus is placed in the skin of the rabbit as the insect sucks blood. Within a few days the virus is transmitted to a local lymph node and then passes into the blood of the rabbit which enables it to be moved around to several sites. The virus mainly multiples in the skin around the eyes, the nose, the face, the soft skin inside the ears and also the skin around the anus and genitals of the rabbit.The incubation period varies slightly from one animal to another but can be as short as five days and as long as fourteen days. Some animals may survive for weeks or months after infection but, in general, if the infection is severe in a susceptible rabbit, death occurs within twelve days.Within a short space of time, affected rabbits become blind because of the swelling around the eyes and for this reason feeding and drinking is often difficult. However, one can sometimes see wild rabbits suffering from Myxomatosis quietly grazing. Of course, at this stage many rabbits become prey to animals such as foxes and other predators. Other rabbits may well become injured or killed on roads but the common cause of death is a secondary lung infection which often occurs around day eight after the initial incubation of the disease.Not all affected rabbits die. Although recovery is rare in the wild (probably less than 10% of wild rabbits eventually recover from myxomatosis).It is easy to spot infected rabbits as they will stay out in the open in daylight, apparently grazing happily, the real reason they are in the open is that they are blind and are having difficulty breathing as their lungs slowly fill with liquid.Look for the closed and weeping eyes.I approach them quietly from downwind and despatch them with a well placed head shot.
As a matter of course I despatch all 'Myxi' infected rabbits that I find , I bag them up and remove them from the field.

Ballistol..what is it and what are its uses.

BALLISTOL

Universal and environment-friendly

Since 1905 Ballistol, the first alkaline weapon-oil, has found many enthusiastic usersnot only in the field of gun maintenance but also in handicraft, industry, home andhobby, where it has become an indispensable helper.
As a high-quality special oil Ballistol combines multiple functions, like cleaning, rust protection, lubrication and disinfection. Moreover, Ballistol is absolutely free from resins and acids. This is why its reputation has become so legendary on all five continents. No other oil comes even close to the multi-functionality of Ballistol.
Applied on metallic surfaces (e.g. iron, steel, nickel and chromium), Ballistol does two jobs simultaneously - cleaning and conserving. Due to its alkaline qualities it reduces the oxygen carriers which are responsible for the oxidation (= rust) of metals and thus protects against corrosion. On top of that it neutralizes feeble acids and is able to creep into hairline cracks and remote corners because the oil has a very low surface tension. Ballistol is made of valuable substances with pharmaceutical purity - its production is regulated by extremely strict hygienic rules. All effective substances in Ballistol are purely natural products and appear in other natural compounds that are totally decomposable in the circular course of nature. The non-volatile components of Ballistol-Oil and Ballistol-Spray fully comply with the legislation and regulations on allowed substances in food. Therefore Ballistol can also be used to maintain machinery in food and drink processing plants where the machines get in contact wittL nourishment. Even an accidental intake of Ballistol is absolutely harmless.

Ballistol and the care of weapons
Pull a tow saturated with Ballistol or a felt stop through the barrel and cartridge feed. Depending on how much residue there is, this procedure may have to be repeated several times. Drip some Ballistol on single parts and the magazine (alternatively use Ballistol-Spray) and then dab the parts with a fluff-free piece of cloth. Intensive metal smearing means that Ballistol has to be used amply. Finally pull a dry tow or felt stop from the cartridge feed towards the muzzle. If you plan not to use the gun for a longer period of time, leave it slightly wet with Ballistol. But do not forget to do the drying as described above before the next shot. The external parts of the gun must be wiped very gently with Ballistol, do not apply much pressure, otherwise the browning might be mechanically damaged by the cloth used. Ballistol maintains and protects your gun, keeps the mechanical parts well-functioning and removes metal residue in the barrel. A thick layer of Ballistol will - after a while - turn into white Vaseline-like film thus protecting the gun against corrosion and keeping movable parts movable. This protective layer has got nothing to do with resinification! Acid combustion residue will be automatically neutralized and made harmless. Only an alkaline oil like Ballistol is capable of doing such an outstanding job.
Ballistol and fishing
Maintains hooks, fly hooks, bait needles, spring-steel wire, and cast leaders. Ballistol keeps your reels running smoothly.


Ballistol in handicraft and industry
For the maintenance of chrome parts in cars, for loosening seized screws, against unwieldy locks and screeching hinges. Keeps plastic and oil-resistant gum and rubber in good shape. In winter it prevents locks from freezing. Neutralizes battery acids that might have leaked and neutralizes hand sweat. In fine mechanics for the protection of polished metal surfaces, for maintaining sensitive scales, precision tools, fine- mechanical parts and last not least for all kinds of measuring and diagnostic instruments. In beverage-producing plants highly appreciated for the maintenance of filling machines, for instance in breweries or fresh milk filling and packing plants. At butchers' for meat-processing and cutting devices. In machine factories for storing and maintaining high-end quality machinery.


Ballistol for home and gardening
Against unwieldy locks, screeching hinges, for maintaining gardening tools, like tor instance lawn-mowers, scissors, hose reels and carrying carts, etc. For bicycles, mopeds, sewing-machines, typewriters. Ballistol is ideal for the upkeep of doon cupboards and chairs: natural wood will be regenerated, stains (from water) removed, the wood will get back its original silky gloss. Brittle, inflexible and hard leather will be soft and elastic again, Ballistol will protect it against water and decay and will provide smooth leather a soft and silky gloss. Ideal for boots, saddles, head-gears and belts. Chamois leather may also be treated with Ballistol, but mind that this kind of leather then loses its original rough surface.
Keep Ballistol products in their original packages and see to it that the bottles are not left open. Then Ballistol has got no expiry date and does not resinify, even after several decades of storage. Do not fill Ballistol in any economical oilers which contain brass parts. Ballistol would become sort of greenish and jelly-like in those oilers. Instead we recommend Ballistol drip-oiler. For spraying Ballistol on bigger surfaces we offer Ballistol hand sprayer. Both products are available at your special retailer or directly from us.
Ballistol is available in 50ml drip-bottles, in a 500ml can, and in a 5-liter canister as well as in larger units for industrial purposes. Furthermore, we offer Ballistol in a 50ml, 100ml or even a 200ml spray can, with the practical additional spray pipe. It goes without saying that all sprays are free from so-called CFC's, chlorinated hydrocarbons and other environment damaging components.
Ballistol - The special oil for environmentally aware people.

All new Ballistol products.

This week Ballistol have put together a list of products developed for Rifles, air or live fire, and shotguns. All these products have been used for many years by the German and American army's, for the maintenance and upkeep of there weapons.

These products, in my opinion, should form the key components in any cleaning kit for your rifle.



Visit their site to see the list of new products and Try it for yourself. Online ordering is simple to do and payment is taken through a secure site.

http://www.ballistoluk.co.uk/acatalog/index.html



Once you have used Ballistol you wont want to buy anything else

The D-V-S forum.

Just a quick note to inform you all that we now have a forum, where you can post,read and comment on forums. Its a place to meet and let others know what we have been up to and other topics that are of interest to us as a shooting community.

Follow this link http://dvs.freeforumit.com/index.php and become a member of the d-v-s forum.

Thanks for reading what i have posted on this blog and please continue to come back to read the new posts on Ballistol products, how Ballistol is growing in the uk and even a way to buy your Ballistol products through this blog.

Thanks again.
Richard

A new member of the D-V-S team

I would like to welcome Shaky to the blog and let everyone know that he is here to add his tips, trics and advise to this great blog. Shaky is a experianced addition to this blog and i know you will find his posts interesting and helpfull.

So "Welcome to the Home of d-v-s Shaky"

target shooting..practice makes perfect

The only way to get good with an air rifle is with practice. Lots and lots and LOTS of practice. Never fire at live quarry unless you are sure that you can produce a kill at that range and under those conditions. But- paper punching gets boring. So, what do you shoot instead?

Basically, you can shoot anything. Paper targets, bells on string, fungi, leaves, twigs, toy soldiers, yogurt pots, coke cans, old books, old posters... I mean, anything- as long as its safe, you can shoot it. A friend of mine has so many free Internet access Cd's that he uses them as targets! (There are always bright patches of colour to aim for, and if you think you're really good, you can try and get the pellet through the centre hole!). You should wear shooting glasses if plinking hard targets at short range, as ricochets can be evil. Another trick is to put a line of caps or "throw downs" along a concrete ledge, go to 10 metres or so and try and hit them. Once you get your eye in, its very satisfying! (Shooting glasses should be worn, because the explosion of the cap combines with the ricochet and sends the pellet back at you). Another satisfying target is old film canisters. (Usually available in large quantities from your nearest camera shop). Put about a teaspoon of flour into the pot, and put the lid on loosely. Laid on their sides, the base is about the same size as an airgun quarry kill zone, and its easy to tell when you hit- clouds of flour fly out. (Experiment to find out how much flour is best- a full pot is too much for most non- FAC rifles, as it will just stop the pellet).

Shooting from a hide

This involves using arranged materials to simulate a natural appearance, so enabling you to set up a comfortable and concealed shooting base within range of your targets, without arousing their suspicions.

The first factor in hide building is location. If the hide is 60 yards from the field where your quarry lurk, you aren't going to have much success. Observation is the key to a successful placement- remember that wind and weather may have an effect on where your quarry will be, and if the wind changes you don't want to send your scent to them. Prowl the area in full camouflage, but only take binoculars- watch where game congregates, then search for a suitable site there. The ideal hide has a hunting field of less that 180°, as it is tiring and awkward to turn yourself and the rifle to check if anything is behind you (not just to check for opportunities, but to check if anything is creeping up on you, it may raise a racket that will warn your intended quarry).

The best start to a hide is a natural hide, e.g. a fallen oak tree. A few pieces of suitable vegetation (preferably natural to the area) can then be woven in to cover any obvious gaps, but leaving sufficient space for a good field of fire. (Thistles are good for this- they don't take much careful arrangement, but a decent thickness will give you good camouflage). Failing this, a piece of camouflage netting is another good base. Size depends entirely on the area that you need to cover, but too large is always better than too small- you can tuck the edges under tree limbs or peg them down, making a better hide anyway. The better types of cam netting have scrim sown to the panels. Scrim is strips or leaf shapes of cammo material, and when out hunting, they blow in the wind and looks like leaves, branches etc. However, before using a scrim net, it is wise to blend the colours and get rid of any "shop" smell. To do this, leave the net out in the vegetable patch (or any other suitable patch of moist, muddy ground) for a month or 2, trampling and turning it occasionally. The colours will blend and flow, and the harsh outlines of the net panels will be softened by mud patches etc.

Two of the most important points in hide building are back lighting and removal of any hard, unnatural lines. Back lighting is one of the most important factors when hunting any creature with good eyesight (e.g. crows). No matter how good your hide, there have to be gaps in it to put your rifle through, and if the sun shines through these from the back of the hide (usually less well built), then any movements you make are as plain as though projected onto a white screen. Make sure you cover the back of the hide too, especially if hunting with the sun behind you. The hard shape of your rifle can be softened with strips of excess cammo material, or even loose bits of scrim. (Just a couple of panels around butt and barrel, and leave some bits dangling). Another use for any left over scrim is to fix it around your scope front lens with an elastic band to dull the glint when the sun catches it. If you use black stocking material, you can actually fix a couple of thicknesses over the front lens, and still see sufficient of your quarry. (Make sure you can still shoot accurately after any modifications of your kit, no matter how small- you don't want to find that you actually put the scrim too far over the lens and can't actually see anything out in the field!)

The art of stalking.

Stalking is the only thing that will really allow you to become good at hunting. No matter how accurate you are, shooting accurately with an (12 ft lbs) air rifle at ranges longer than 45 odd metres is extremely difficult/ impossible, so you must get closer to your target. How?-- by stalking. Part of the secret of stalking is camouflage- not just the clothing, but moving so that you blend in. For this reason, always walk slowly and don't make sudden movements when quarry is in the area, wear cammo clothing if you have it (including gloves and cap) and put dark bars of cammo paint on your face. Human hands and faces are pink / white- for this reason, squirrels and birds have come to associate moving patches of pink and upraised patches of pink (upturned faces) as threatening, so make sure that your hands and face are as obscured as possible, and don't hang around staring into trees! Be quiet, too- if you hunt in pairs or groups, don't talk to your companions except when essential. Be quiet when closing car doors before you enter your shoot. Rest assured that rabbits and other wild creatures will know this sound and be wary of it. Even young animals will be basically wary of any loud noises such as this.

When creeping up on your target, always approach from downwind. Even if your quarry cannot smell you, there may well be other creatures in the area that can, and will stampede, scaring off your target. Be wary of pigeons in trees, especially at night. These are hard to spot, especially in thick vegetation, and when alerted, fly off with huge noise of wings and cracking of branches. This will alert other animals in the area. Before you put all your weight down, make sure that there are no dead twigs or leaves under your feet that will crunch or crackle when you put the rest of your weight down. If stalking through dry leaves, quietly and SLOWLY brush clear patches for your feet with your feet. (Trainers are best for this, but obviously not bright coloured ones. With good camouflage and not too much movement, a bird may believe that you are a tree- if you are wearing bright orange Nike's, this is less likely!)

Again, stalking is all about practice. At first, you are bound to be disappointed- you set foot in one side of a wood, and all game leaves via the other side! (or so it will seem). Trust me, with practice and an understanding of the areas you hunt in, you will improve. In time, you will recognise the inevitable moments when your target becomes spooked, and stop moving, blending into the background. The rabbit relaxes again, and on you go, closer and closer until finally you are within a safe range, and your finger can caress the trigger...

A new place to chat

With most people having MSN/HOTMAIL or WINDOWS LIVE i have setup a new contact so you can come and chat with me live.
Add me to your MSN contacts so if you need help, advice or just a chat you can find me here.

homeofdvs@hotmail.co.uk

Thanks for reading.

Richard

Other gun products from Ballistol.

First is a high power barrel cleaner that removes all build up within the riflings and barrel.


Second is the Gunex 2000...a great all round lube for every part of your rifle. Can even be used as a pellet lube.


And third is the Klever quick-browning.....this is a great product for repairs to renavation of metal work on your rifle.

Another handy product is this.....Stichfrei protects for up to 8 hours from insect bites such as gnats ,mosquitoes and the like. It also has a UV-B FILTER that helps protect against sunburn.

This is a must have for shooters ,anglers and hikers alike.

More great gun care products from Ballistol

I have been reviewing the Ballistol range now for some time and i have now got hold of a few more of the gun care products. The first is a product for the repair of scratches or the renovation of old actions and barrels. Its called Klever quick-browning . How many times have you caught your rifle on a wall or barbed wire and have ended up scratching your barrel. If left untreated this will rust and end up damaging the metal forever. By using this product you are replacing protection to your rifle and prolonging its beauty and working life.

Clean the area to be treated with a mild detergent to remove oils and finger marks, then rub dry with kitchen towel. Using a small brush apply the browning to the scratch and allow to dry for 3-5 mins. Then wash the area with water to remove excess and pat lightly to dry . To finish ,spray on Ballistol oil or Gunex2000 to the whole barrel protecting everything with a waterproof coating and your done.See the pics for before and after shots. I have used an old Chinese action that i have had for some time ,going rusty in the back of my shed.

Before

After

The oil pencil is another great product too and i use it on my rifle ,pistol and knock down targets